While we were on Antigua, we were frequently told how the place to go for birdwatchers is Barbuda. Everyone painted verbal pictures of the island's beauty as some kind of must-see paradise. I was certainly looking forward to visiting the frigatebird colony there and perhaps getting a look at its endemic bird, the Barbuda Warbler. Expectations were high.
Barbuda is a curious, strange and odd place a 15 minute flight north of Antigua. The island is rather flat and scrubby, with a massive lagoon covering the top left corner. The population of about 1,500 (nobody seems quite sure, though they could all gather in a few minutes and have a bit of a count), where naturally everyone knows everyone, lives in houses scattered over the island, concentrated in places, while there are amazing, clean white coral beaches all around.
Some beaches are served by hotels such as the Lighthouse Bay Resort, where you pay top dollar for an endless, palm-fringed beach and luxurious rooms with flat screen TVs. And it is just hard to see the connection between the island life and the paticular niche of the tourist market they are aiming at.
Columbus landed here in 1493 when the island had been populated by Arawaks and Caribs for some 4,000 years. The island's sad history also includes being used as a 'slave nursery' by the Codrington family, and the big lagoon in the north-west bears the Codrington name. It is this lagoon which holds a sanctuary for breeding Magnificent Frigatebirds, with some 4,000 pairs nesting in the mangroves.
Codringtoon Lagoon, Barbuda, from the air (the open sea is the turquoise stuff on the left)
Our aircraft for the short hop between Antigua and Barbuda. The hunmmingbird on the tail is a nice touch
Barbuda Airport
This guy was waiting at the boat stop at the lagoon
This type of jellyfish was abundant over the bottom of the shallow Codrington Lagoon. They turn themselves 'upsidedown' in the sand, with the feeding tentacles upward (basically a medusoid behaving like a hydroid). They came in infinite colours and patterns.
Our skilled boatman took us at speed with great precision to the frigatebird colony
Fancy your own beach? This lady and her husband had had the Lighthouse Bay Resort to themselves for a week or so when our group shattered their peace, as we arrived for a lovely breakfast.
Here's the view looking the other way
This is our gang (Weedon in hat at back) at the Lighthouse Bay Resort
American Kestrels were nesting in the palms where we had breakfast
Magnificent Frigatebird youngsters at the colony on the Codrington Lagoon
View from the Highlands
Turk's Cap Cactus at the Highlands
A cave-dwelling Pearly-eyed Thrasher. Jo Finn found this rather worn bird, the only thrasher we saw on the island
An old Barbudan house
The flag of Antigua and Barbuda by the BPM (Barbuda People's Movement) headquarters
This American Kestrel near the Martello Tower near the pink beach which is home to NoMO's bar, had a dodgy left foot (hence the strange grip)
The pink beach outside NoMo's
Norris Morris Harris's cricket bat
NoMo's bar
Why the beach is pink
The shadow of Weedon in situ...
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